This amazing pleated linen suit is a rare example of Sybil Connolly's work and it looks to have never been worn, making it that much more collectible! It is obviously from the same collection as the skirt I have also listed and both pieces came from the same estate! (and a similar skirt is part of the permanent collection of the FDIM Museum in Los Angeles!) They recently featured the skirt and I want to share with you this excerpt from that blog entry, remarking on Sybil Connolly's techniques:
Sybil Connolly's trademark gowns required a tremendous amount of fabric. To construct one pleated evening dress required between 72 and 90 yards of unpleated Irish handkerchief linen. After undergoing a secret pleating process, this initial yardage became 7 to 10 yards of slightly irregular, narrow linen pleats. Like the early 20th century designer Mario Fortuny, Sybil Connolly was very protective of her pleating process, swearing that it was a secret she would "carry to the grave."3
In her designs, Connolly usually oriented the pleats horizontally, covering the seams with self-fabric cording. The cords also lengthen the overall line of the garment, providing a counterbalance to the horizontal pleats. As Connolly tended towards solid colors, the stiff cording also provides a necessary visual contrast to the soft linen pleats.
This suit, like the skirt I also have listed, is a stunning example of that technique. I love the piped silk stain edgings that really highlight the cut of the pieces. The workmanship and time spent to construct this is astonishing and it is a true work of art and a rare piece of fashion history. Excellent condition.
Jacket
Shoulders: 15.5" from seam to seam
Bust: 21" from side seam to side seam
Waist: 18.5" from side seam to side seam
Total length: 20" from shoulder to bottom hem
Sleeves: 23.5"
Skirt
Waist: 15" from side seam to side seam
Hips: 19" from side seam to side seam
Total length: 24" from waist seam to bottom hem
Both the jacket and skirt are fully lined in a red rayon. Each closes with matte silk satin covered buttons along the front and the skirt has hidden hook and eye at the waist
Modern Sizing equivalent: LRG
Item# DD482
This garment has been professionally cleaned, pressed and is odor free. Thoroughly checked over before shipping, it will be ready to wear upon arrival